Red Eye Tree Frogs Enclosure

 

Continuing on with this month's theme, this post showcases my iconic Red Eye Tree Frog enclosure. Red Eye Tree frogs were top of my frog wish list but I read that there were more difficult to keep, hard to handle and more fragile.  But, now with the experience of a leopard gecko (ideal first reptile) and whites tree frogs (ideal first frog) I was excited to see some Red Eye Tree frogs advertised as being available from Davy's pet shop in Carlow.  So, in July it was off to Carlow again.  This time we got the enclosure, equipment and frogs all at the same time.  Something I would NOT recommend, and not do again. 

The Enclosure

Again I got a Habistat 24x18x18 tall glass terrarium with mesh lid and front opening door.  As stated in my previous post, the dark sides and quality made me opt for it over the Exo Terra and other branded enclosures.  

Red Eye Tree Frogs generally require heat of no more than 82 degrees fahrenheit during the day and lower at night but not lower than 65 degrees.  

They are high humidity frogs which means that the humidity should be maintained at levels of 80% upwards at night, but can be lower during the day when the heat lamp dries the air.  They require misting 30 mins before and 30 mins after daytime light/heat.  I initially got an automatic fogger but later found from Facebook specialist groups that foggers are not recommended for frogs due to risk of respiratory infections so I replaced it with a rainmaker which mists automatically twice a day at the required time.

Heat, UVB Light and Misting

I again used the Arcadia clamp lamp with a floodlight on a manual thermostat but at the same time as I upgraded the Whites Tree Frogs I changed to a 80w deep heat projector (DHP) bulb controlled by a Habistat digital day/night thermostat.  The DHP does not emit light only heat so can be used at a lower temp during the night during cold winter spells.  I have the lamp attached to a Habistat digital day/night thermostat.  

I have an Arcadia ShadeDweller ProT5 7% UVB tube lights are used to replicate sunlight providing a source of vitamin D which is needed to absorb calcium.  Both the heat lamp and the UVB rest on top of the mesh top.  This is set on a 12 on and 12 off cycle.  

Substrate, Plants and Decor

Initially I used coir as a substrate topped with fine orchid bark.  Being non-bioactive the substrate needed to be changed monthly which was cumbersome.

For decoration I have added two frog dishes and one small which are suction cupped and a tyre.  I have an Exo Terra bendable jungle tree in the middle of the enclosure and some silk vines and other suction branches.   And, vitally important I have two water pools.

During the summer (2025) I decided to upgrade the enclosure to a fully bioactive set-up.  This meant that I had to put in a drainage layer (Habistat clay sinking balls), a fleece layer (Lucky Reptile HF-100 Hydro Fleece), substrate (Arcadia Earth Mix Forrest) and top it with Habistat fine orchid bark to stop the frogs getting irritated by the soil sticking to their sensitive bodies.   A bioactive enclosure reduces maintenance when you add a clean-up crew so I added springtails.   I introduced an Arcadia LumenIZE LED bar as a light for the plants which I have scheduled to come on gently and increase the percentage during the day and then reduce the output as the day continues. I bought the plants from the Reptile Department in Newlands Garden Centre.

Food, Water and Supplements

It is vital to provide a water pools for frogs so they can absorb water to hydrate. Unlike my other frogs the Red Eyes don't soak in the water, they sit on the side of the pool with a teeny bit of their rear touching the water.  Initially as young and juvenile frogs I fed them black crickets (2nds) daily.  When their eating slowed down as they became adults I started to feed them every second day.  They currently average between 4 and 10 black crickets every second day.  The feeders are dusted each time with calcium and each weekend I will alternate dusting with calcium plus vitamin D or Repashy Calcium Plus. 

Maintenance

It is helpful to automate heating, lighting and misting as it reduces pressure and maintenance.  My heating is on a digital thermostat with a timer, and both lights and the mister are plugged into digital timers.

• I change the water in the paddling pools (using tap water de-cholorinated with Zoomed Reptisafe).
• I feed black crickets (3rds) every second day by putting food into ceramic escape proof dishes.
• I clean glass as needed and remove obvious faeces.
• I scrub clean the pools, ledge, slate, tyre and cups/hides weekly.

Lessons Learned

Do not use a fogger on frogs

Use a digital day/night thermostat rather than the manual one

Get a DHP from the beginning

Additional Point

I was led to believe that a lot of experience was required for Red Eye Tree Frogs but I have found them really easy to keep and look after.  They are very quiet, I have two males so just hear occasional chirps from them.  As they matured and I found I had two males I was concerned as some Facebook 'experts' indicated not good to have two males. I consulted with a good breeder and he felt it was ok.  I have provided two of everything and there appears to be no issues.

NOTE: As per other enclosures, the photos of the enclosures and equipment were taken with my iPhone without adjusting settings and without editing.