Leopard Gecko Enclosure

This month for something a little different, I have decided to feature the various enclosures and their exotic inhabitants that I have.  These posts will be longer and more detailed than usual as I want to feature the equipment as well as the husbandry necessary to keep them healthy. The photos of the enclosures and equipment were taken with my iPhone without adjusting settings and without editing.  

The best place to start is to feature Sheddie and her enclosure as she was my first ever reptile. You can look back on photo blogs (Aug '23, May '24 and Oct '24) to see camera images of her and track her progress.  As I said in the August '23 post, leopard geckos are an ideal first reptile.  

I bought her enclosure as a kit from Shauna's Pet shop where I was going to buy Sheddie, and initially followed their recommendations.  The enclosure is a 4 foot wooden vivarium made by Habistat (L122xD46xH46) and I have it on the Habistat matching base.  The kit I obtained from the pet shop provided a Habistat heat mat and an Arcadia ceramic lamp holder for a basking bulb as the heat sources.  It also contained an Arcadia shade dweller T5 UVB light kit and a thermometer and basic decoration.  I realised on setting it up that I was missing some important items, in particular a thermostat for the heat mat and a dimming thermostat for the basking bulb.  I bought these separately along with a combi hydrometer to get readings of both heat and humidity which I felt was essential. 

At this point it is probably useful to provide you with an overview of what a captive leopard gecko needs.  

Heat and UVB Light

It is important that they have a heat gradient with a warm side, a cold side and the middle somewhat in between.  This feels a little bit like Goldilocks as I type!  I was advised on the 4ft wide enclosure to ensure that the gradient was adequate.  One side should be heated with an aim of around 85 degrees Fahrenheit during the day.  The cold side will be at room temperature.  The heat should be on 12 hours during the day.  It is recommended to have three hides, one in the warm side, one in the cold side and a humid hid in the middle.  UVB tube lights are used to replicate sunlight providing a source of vitamin D which is needed to absorb calcium.  

The illustration above shows the heat and UVB light set-up I am currently using for Sheddie.  Unfortunately I installed the UVB reasonably central but slight closer to the heat than the cold side.  Some recommendations are for it to be closer to the heat bulb.  But, Sheddie spends most of the day in the humid hide in the middle of the enclosure under the UVB so I personally think that this works as there is a better chance for her to absorb the UV needed. I made a few changes from what was provided in the original kit.  Facebook groups specialising in leopard gecko care all critisised the use of heat mats (risk of burning the gecko and risk of fire) therefore I deactivated that part of the set-up.  During the winter months I struggled at night to maintain an acceptable heat level for Sheddie.  Generally the heat in the enclosure should not be less than 65 degrees Fahrenheit at night and some nights I was at that level and dipping lower.  I didn't want to resume using the heat mat so I switched the basking heat light to a deep heat projector and switched to using a Habistat day/night digital thermostat.  A deep heat projector is ideal particularly at night because it emits heat and no light.  This works really well and as Sheddie does not come out during the day she won't miss the light aspect to the basking bulb.  I have the thermostat set to emit heat to 85 degrees during the day (7.30 am to 7.30 pm) and 72 degrees at night (7.30 pm to 7.30 am).  

Substrate, Hides and Decor

It took a while to get the deco to a standard that I was happy with and I had a bit of experimenting.  I now have two 60x45 Exo Terra terrarium doam background pieces.  I needed to cut these to size and cut out pieces to free the aeration holes, which was a bit messy.  I had to replace one of them because Sheddie could get behind one of them due to the way I cut it.  I had an hour of panic trying to find her one day and after taking every item of decor and hides out I still couldn't find her.  Eventually I heard a noise behind the board and on removing it there she was!  This hasn't happened again since I cut it with a better fit.  It is not the prettiest background, I couldn't find a better quality one that would fit deliverable to Ireland.  

Substrate is another big decision point and one that seems to cause a lot of criticism in Facebook groups.  Because Sheddie was a well established adult when I got her I moved her into her enclosure with substrate.  It is recommended for young geckos, quarantine periods and during periods of illness to use paper towels for monitoring and reducing the risk of infections if the gecko has injuries.  When Sheddie tested positive for parasites I used paper towels for the period of treatment and until I got a negative faeces test.  I am currently using Arcadia earth mix arid on the warm side and Habistat leopard gecko substrate in the middle and on the cold side.  Once the substrate is not bioactive it should be changed every 3 to 4 months.  In the past I have used LeoLife but I am happier with the duo mix.  In the image below you with see the earth mix arid on the left which looks a bit like soil and the Habistat leopard gecko mix on the right which is more like small gravel that is sand coloured.  Sand is not recommended for leopard geckos as there is a risk the gecko will become impacted by consuming sand while eating insects.  

You can see in the image above that I have provided six hides (the cork bark at the back works as a hide) which is way in excess of the recommended 3.  Sheddie's favorite is the moist hide in the middle, you can see her tail sticking out in the image above. A moist hide in the middle is essential to help geckos with shedding.  It is an enclosed hide that has damp moss or damp paper towels which helps increase humidity and aids the shedding process.  Reptiles shed regularly, this is where they peel off the layer of old dead skin.  It is rare to actually see the shedding process but you will observe the gecko becoming paler and paler just before shedding and suddenly the gecko will appear with the lovely vivid colouring back. I have witnessed Sheddie shedding and it is fascinating watching her peel off her skin and eat it.  Leopard geckos, according to experts in Facebook groups like lots of clutter and feel safer when they can easily retreat to a secluded area.

Food, Water and Supplements

It is important to provide a water source for geckos.  Although I have never seen mine drinking and I have a camera which she triggers and it records her movement.  She has walked through the water bowl on the odd occasion.  Leopard geckos eat insects only, and I have tried a range of insects with Sheddie.  Currently I feed her mostly locusts which she will eat approx every 5 days.  I generally tong feed her, by moving the insect along with tongs and try release if she is ready to pounce.  Leopard geckos are known for hunger strikes and Sheddie has caused panic on two occasions when she dramatically reduced food intake and then stopped eating for weeks.  Both times I took her to an exotic vet who found nothing up.  I have now come to the believe that the females stop eating when they are ovulating and reabsorbing the eggs that are not fertilised.

Maintenance 

Leopard geckos are generally low maintenance.  

• I change her water daily.
• Feed every 5 to 7 days depending on time of year or her mood.
• Clean faeces and urates just after she does it (approx 2 days after eating)
• Regularly spray moss in moist hide (and change periodically)
• Clean water bowl weekly
• Check decorations monthly
• Replace substrate quarterly 

Mistakes made from a purchase perspective:

Heat mat and thermostat for it as all Facebook groups indicated it was poor husbandry and

Manual dimming thermostat rather than the more expensive digital day/night thermostat.